This article describes my second Independent Pilgrimage/Umrah Mandiri during Ramadhan 1446 H. I was flooded with blessings on this journey. I could feel the vibe early in the morning when I was about to leave my apartment. I felt an atmosphere similar to Madina’s calmness. This Umra was also adventurous.
Planning the Umra
I planned to start my Umra journey on 12 March 2025. As I had a meeting on 13-14 March 2025, I rescheduled my Umra from 16 to 31 March 2025. This umrah was supposed to be a self-reward after completing the current work, but the timeline of my work has shifted. I had my last-minute travel itinerary adjustment with financial implications. However, Alhamdulillah, I was still able to focus on my Ibadah.
At first, I booked my direct flight from Jakarta to Medina on 12 March 2025, which I cancelled two weeks before my departure due to the conflicting schedule, with a penalty. Then, I decided to book Malaysian Airlines with a long transit, allowing me to enjoy Kuala Lumpur. On the way back to Saudi Arabia, I booked Garuda Indonesia. I redeemed my Garuda Frequent Flyer miles from Jeddah to Jakarta. Alhamdulilah!
Accomodation in Madina and Mecca
The hotel price skyrocketed. I booked hotels through Agoda according to my budget limit and my needs, as I still had to work remotely. During peak season like Ramadhan, the price doubled, even triple the regular price. The price dropped to normal on the D-1 before, during, and after Eid. So, please plan in advance to get a better price. Three months in advance can guarantee you a reasonable price. I also prepared myself for the upcoming Berlin Marathon 2025. Adding more daily steps could be an alternative for my training. I was always in my running shoes.
Hotel in Madina
- Millenium Madina Airport Hotel : 16 – 20 March 2025. The 5-star hotel is adjacent to the airport, 6 minutes walk from the Prince Muhammad bin Abdulaziz International Airport. It’s around 14 KM from Masjidil An-Nabawi. The hotel provided a shuttle service to Haram during the 5-times prayer. In case of missing the shuttle, the bus number 400 operates every 40 minutes from Haram to the airport. It costs 11.5 SAR for a one-way ticket.
Hotel in Mecca
- M Makkah Millenium Hotel : 20 – 24 March 2025. The 4-star hotel is located 3 KM from Masjid Al Haram. The hotel provided a shuttle bus with a more frequent schedule to the Ajyad bus station. The bus station is within walking distance of Haram toward the Gate no.1.
- Al Joud Boutique Hotel : 24 – 30 March 2025. The 3-star hotel is located 5 KM from Masjid Al Haram. The hotel provided a shuttle bus to the Kudai bus station and connected with the public bus to the Bab Ali bus station. The Bab Al Malik bus station is within walking distance of Haram toward Gate No. 79 (Umra Gate). In total, it would take around 20-30-minute drives, excluding the waiting time for the bus.
- Pullman Zam Zam Hotel : 30 – 31 March 2025. The 5-star hotel is located in the Abraj Tower, just a minute’s walk from Haram.
Visa on Arrival vs eVisa to enter Saudi Arabia
I still hold a valid German Schengen visa with one year’s validity, which I used last November 2024. Thus, I could apply for an e-visa and a visa on arrival (VoA) in Saudi Arabia. My mistake was that I should not have tried to apply for an e-visa because I only had a limited time before my flight. But, I gave it a try since I was worried it would be so crowded in the airport due to the flooding of pilgrims during Ramadhan. I applied for my visa on 11 March, and it was not approved until my departure date, and even my arrival day back in Jakarta. Meanwhile, my visa on arrival (VoA) was approved smoothly. Only three people applied at the VoA counter at the Prince Muhammad bin Abdulaziz International Airport that day. It cost 480 SAR for a multiple-entry VoA. This time, I paid double for my e-visa and VoA.
The departure, 16 March 2025
Alhamdulillah, for the blessings. Rizq is not always about money; it can come in various forms, such as good food, great company, a smooth journey, or a seamless Visa-on-arrival process. That’s precisely what I experienced. Allah is the best planner. Due to a meeting in Jakarta, I had to reschedule my flight with Malaysian Airlines. I had an 8-hour layover in Kuala Lumpur.
I started my travels at 4:25 AM Jakarta time after having Sahoor around 3:25 AM. I fasted for 18.5 hours (considering Indonesian time plus a 4-hour time difference with Madina). Alhamdulillah, I wasn’t hungry because I slept soundly during the flight from KL to Medina. I woke up just in time for Iftar. The excitement was on another level, and I felt truly blessed when I heard the Azan up in the sky during the flight.
Upon arriving at Prince Mohammed Abdul Aziz International Airport in Madina, I applied for my Visa on Arrival (VoA) as I hold a German Schengen visa with multiple entries. The VoA process was seamless. There are two options: using a self-service kiosk or the counter. Since only four people were in line, I decided to go to the counter. It was very easy; I received my VoA in just a minute, and it’s a multiple-entry visa. Alhamdulillah!
I quickly got my luggage and found my hotel pick-up without any trouble. Alhamdulillah!
I also met a lovely Afghan lady traveling alone from Australia, and we’ve now formed a friendship as sisters in Islam. Alhamdulillah!
“Which of your Lord’s blessings do you both deny?” — Q.S Ar Rahman.
Alhamdulillah, Allah addressed my worries beautifully. I left everything in His hands, as He is the best planner. I was concerned that the VoA process would take longer due to the crowd of pilgrims, but it didn’t.
Choosing Malaysian Airlines is the best option. It offers excellent service. I got my pilgrimage handy package, which includes a prayer mat, mask, bag, and wudhu (ablation) spray bottle. That’s what I need.
Days in Madinah, 16-20 March 2025
After reaching the hotel, I rested to prepare for the next day.
I was alone on the 17-18 March 2025 while waiting for my sister, Ms. Asmaa Temerik, an Egyptian DAAD alumna from Heidelberg University. When we met during our alumni seminar last November 2024, we promised to perform Umra together during Ramadhan, along with Ms. Iman Brema, a South Sudanese alumna. We kept our promise to do so. However, we have different arrival and departure schedules in Mecca and Medina.
I spent my days in Medina performing the 5-times prayer at Masjid Al-Nabawi. I went to Haram by the shuttle bus provided by the hotel as per the schedule below. Again, this time, I focused on my Ibadah.
If I missed the shuttle bus, I would take the bus that departed for the Airport every 40 minutes. Sometimes, the schedule was not reliable. The schedule was also not flexible. For example, I would like to spend more time in Haram after the Fajr prayer until Syuruq. It means that I left Haram around 7-8 AM. However, the bus has already departed for the hotel. As it was Ramadhan, there were special prayers called Tarawih after Isha prayer, which finished by 10 PM. Thus, I missed the shuttle bus schedule again. It’s great to know that Madina operates 24 hours. Still, many people were around. It was safe to walk alone even at midnight.
Visiting the Rawdah
On 18 March 2025, I visited Rawdah (the Garden of Paradise) twice that day, Alhamdulillah
- via Nusuk Application on 18.03.2025 at 6.40 AM
- via gate 21 after Dhuha prayer. No booking was required. It will lead you to another part of Rawdah.
To be able to stay in Rawdah longer was such a blessing. May Allah grant the Dua. Ameen ya rabbal alamin.
Visiting Quba Mosque
On 19 March 2025, while waiting for Asmaa to visit Rawdah, I took my morning brisk walk to the Quba Mosque.
The Quba Mosque is very special as it was the first mosque built during the lifetime of the Islamic prophet Muhammad in the 7th century C.E. Performing two Rakaʿāt of Nafl (optional) prayers in the Quba Mosque is considered equivalent to performing one Umrah. The Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) used to visit this mosque every Saturday, whether riding or walking, to offer a two Rakaʿāt prayer. Amen, ya rab alamin. Alhamdulillah.
The mosque is located 3.5 km from Masjid Al-Nabawi, and it’s easier to reach by walking. Just follow the Quba Walk straight from Haram, entering through Gate No. 310.
Along the way, I passed numerous shops and restaurants, and I also saw many adorable cats. It’s no surprise that there are lots of cats in Medina, as the Prophet himself was fond of them and owned several.
By the end of my walk, I had completed over 10,000 steps, which is quite good for mild to moderate training during the fasting month.
Upon returning to Masjid Al-Nabawi, I discovered that my old Indonesian friend, Daryanto, was also in town. This gave us the chance to meet in person after seven years. Truly, Allah is the best planner. Alhamdulillah!
Traveling to Mecca by Train, 20 March 2025
The Haramain Rapid Train (HRT) was a reliable transport option from Mecca to Madina. It was full even in the business class. I took the train from Madina at 8.50 PM and reached Mecca at 11.10 PM. I went straight to the hotel and got ready to perform my Umra. I set my Umra intention on the train. Ten minutes after the train departed, there was an announcement to the passengers that those who wanted to set the Umra intention could start it.
Days in Mecca, 21-31 March 2025
Enjoying the last 10 Ramadhan 1446 H for I’tikaf
I focused more on my Ibadah, particularly during the last 10 days of Ramadhan, to have I’tikaf, to get the Laylatul Qadr, “the night of power.
First Umrah, 21 Ramadhan 2025
The night of 21 Ramadhan 1446H is considered sacred because the 21st falls on Friday. Moslems believe it has a higher chance of being the Laylatul Qadr, “the night of power. “ Thus, as worshippers, we aim to do our best and increase our ibadah.
Others believe that it‘s not always true. The night might be Ramadhan’s last ten nights, especially the odd ones. Wallahu a‘lam. Allah knows best.
The rewards of Laylatul Qadr are immense. In the Holy Qur’an, Allah The Most Merciful describes The Night of Power: “Indeed, We sent the Qur’an down during the Night of Decree. And what can you know about the Night of Decree? The Night of Decree is better than a thousand months. The angels and the Spirit descend therein with permission from their Lord for every matter. Peace it is until the emergence of dawn”. Qur’an | 97:1-5
I had my Umrah on an odd night. May Allah accept my ibadah.
As expected, it was full of other pilgrims. It was the longest time I had spent in Umrah. Both the Mataaf for performing Tawaf and Masa’i for performing Sa’i were packed. But, Alhamdulilah, it’s completed. I started around 3.30 AM but finished by 6 AM with some pauses during the Fajr prayer.
Afterward, I waited for Syuruq’s prayer before returning to the hotel by bus. As it was Friday, more worshippers were expected to pray the Jumah prayer. Thus, the local traffic controller decided to start the roadblock to the Haram area at 8 AM instead of the regular time around 10 or more. The Jumah prayer began at 12.30 PM. It means that I was also blocked from returning by bus or taking the taxi, which costed 2 or 3 times more. Along the way, I met two Indonesians staying in the same hotel. We considered our choices. Ultimately, we decided to stay in Haram and spend more time on the Ibadah.
It was a really long day for me. I felt super tired, but it was rewarding. Alhamdulillah, Allah makes it easier.
Alhamdulilah, I had recited the prayers of my family and friends. May Allah accept and grant our prayers.
May Allah also invite me for Umra Ramadhan and Hajj in 1447H.
Routine in between my Umra
I spent most of the time at the mosque to improve the Ibadah during Ramadhan. My routine will be
- Left the hotel after Dhuhr or Asr Prayer and stayed until Isha returned to the hotel.
- During the odd night, I stayed at Haram until Fajr prayer, sometimes until Syuruq time.
- I rested after Fajr/Shuruq time until Dhuhr or Asr prayer.
The time flies fast. Apart from the prayers, I did some sunnah prayers and tawaf, and also read the Quran. Tawaf means circling the Ka’bah seven times to praise Allah. Unfortunately, this year, I could not get the Khatam Quran.
My Second Umra, 28 March 2025
As I stayed at Al Joud Boutique hotel, I had to take the bus twice, which involved changing vehicles this time. First, I took the hotel shuttle bus to Kudai bus station, which took about 15-20 minutes. Then, I boarded a public bus from Kudai to Bab Al Malik station, a short ride of about 5 minutes. I was truly impressed by the traffic management; the crowd of passengers was handled very efficiently. Within a minute, all the passengers were loaded onto the buses, with around 10-15 buses waiting to accommodate everyone.
Interestingly, I was the only passenger transported from the hotel to Kudai station that day. In contrast, the bus from Kudai to Bab Al Malik station was packed full of pilgrims eager to perform Umrah and attend the Jumah prayer. The driver asked me to sit in the front, right next to the exit, so I sat on the dashboard. What an adventure!
Upon arriving at the bus station, I ran into Mrs. @aliyahratnan, who was in the same travel group during Umrah in Ramadan 1444H (2023). She was the inspiration for me to perform Umrah every Ramadan. Alhamdulillah, we were able to meet this year. Last year, we missed each other. Fortunately, her hotel was just next to the bus station, which made it easier for me. After a brief catch-up, we headed to the mosque together at around 10 AM. Unfortunately, once we arrived, we got separated because the mosque was crowded. I walked a bit further to find a prayer spot, making a small detour to the male section of The Library of Masjidil Haram. Alhamdulilah, I had my Jumah prayer.
After the Jumah prayer, I went to the Aisha mosque to set my intention for the second Umra. Getting a taxi was challenging and expensive if I wanted to travel alone. It costs 200 SAR for a return trip. Ultimately, I joined a group of people hitchhiking in a cab, costing me 10 SAR. There was a Palestinian lady with me.
I prayed Ashar in the mosque and set my intention for the Umra. Then, I returned to the Haram and joined two people in a cab. Unfortunately, the driver took the wrong route, so we had a detour and got stuck in traffic. We then got out of the taxi and walked for 15 minutes to Haram.
I started my Tawaf at 5.30 PM, around 1 hour before the Maghrib prayer. I paused for Maghrib prayer, continued the tawaf, and proceeded with Sa’i. Since it was so crowded, I finished my Sa’i after the Isha and Tarawih prayer. I realized that it was the last Tarawih. I missed the last Tarawih in Ramadhan 1446 H, which also Khatam al-Quran. I was a bit sad. I wish I could have performed the prayer. But I have no choice. The Umra took longer since it was so crowded with other pilgrims.
The Eve of Eid, 29 March 2025
I was so excited with the Eid. May Allah accept our fasting and Ibadah. Umrah mabruran.
“Alhamdulilah, thank you for the blessings of performing Umrah Ramadhan again this year. Please invite me again next year, ya Rab. Insha Allah for Hajj with my husband (future husband, to be exact). Ameen ya, rabbi Alamin. May Allah invite us for Umra Ramadhan 1447H—Insha Allah with family and friends.” – The Dua I have on the Eve of Eid.
Alhamdulilah, I recited the dua of my family and friends when I performed my Umrah and my prayers. May Allah grant our prayers. Ameen ya rabbi alamin.
Allahuma khair, Alhamdulilah, for all the blessings—meeting good people and having all the ease when I am here.
Eid Mubarak 1446 H, 30 March 2025
Allahu Akbar Allahu Akbar Allahu Akbar. La Ilallah Wallahu Akbar. Allahu Akbar Wa Lilahil Hamd.
Alhamdulilah, for another Eid Mubarak in Mecca.
I started my day at 3 AM to catch the hotel shuttle bus to Haram for Eid Prayer at 3:35 AM. Unfortunately, it was canceled due to the traffic in Haram. Therefore, the next shuttle was at 4:35 AM for both Fajr and Eid prayers. It was already too late, as the roadblocks had been set. I waited for some time and had to think of alternatives to reach Haram.
After my Fajr prayer, I prayed that I could still do my Eid prayer despite the roadblocks. I still had an hour to catch the Eid prayer. Alhamdulilah, I was enlightened. I found an alternative to walking to Haram via Ajyad Street. It would take me 1 hour plus morning exercise. The good thing is that I was wearing my running shoes. Once I reached the road, it was packed with other worshippers. Masha Allah.
I decided to make a stop because it was nearing the prayer time. It’s located around 2.4 KM from Haram. The good thing was I was familiar with this street. I stayed at Al Massa Dar Al Faiezeen two years ago with @aufathya during our Ramadhan Umra. Alhamdulilah, I can still join the Eid prayer.
After the prayer, I started working towards the Masjidil Haram and finally reached while hearing the sermon by the Grand Imam of Haramain, Sheikh Sudais. Alhamdulillah. After the struggle, I can still join the prayer with other worshippers around the world. It was such a blessing.
Eid Mubarak 1446H! Insha Allah, for another Eid in Mecca! Ya Rab, please invite me again next year along with my family and friends. Ameen.
Flying back to Jakarta on 31 March 2025
One surprise was that I didn’t realize was that Garuda Indonesia operated in the Hajj (H) terminal instead of the main terminal (Terminal 1) at King Abdul Aziz International Airport. Upon arriving at Terminal 1 via the Haramain Rapid Train (HRT) from Mecca, I needed to get to the H terminal, which took around 24 minutes by taxi. A shuttle bus ran every 30 minutes between the terminals, but since my flight schedule had changed, I had plenty of time between my train arrival and check-in. I stayed relaxed and calm as I waited for almost two hours. Unfortunately, the shuttle bus was not operating that day. As my departure approached, another pilgrim from Algeria approached me to share a taxi, so I finally had some company. The taxi fare was 100 SAR.
Another surprise was how crowded the airport was with pilgrims. Even though I had priority access, I had to wait more than 30 minutes in line.
I was finally checked in after repeatedly mentioning to the ground staff that I should receive fast-track service due to my priority status. In front of me, a business class passenger was stuck waiting for hours due to flight changes and his connecting flight to Surabaya. Before that, a group of pilgrims from a travel tour had been in line. It was pretty chaotic. But Alhamdulillah, Allah made it easy for me. I was escorted to the lounge before boarding time, which was quite a long walk from the check-in area.
I waited patiently in the lounge until it was time to board. Once again, there was a slight delay. I nearly fell asleep until a group of people arrived, one of whom was Ustadz Khalid Basalamah. It was my first time meeting him in person; previously, I had only enjoyed his sermons during the Connect 3 Project at Istora Senayan. Alhamdulillah.
Finally, I boarded the plane filled with pilgrims from Indonesia. I arrived safely the next day. What an adventure! Alhamdulilah. Alhamdulillah.
The people I met
I am grateful for the wonderful people I met during my Umrah in Ramadhan 1446H (self-organized travel) —Alhamdulillah for a brief catch-up with them. Allah is the best planner! I had the chance to meet these following people
- Mr. Daryanto, long time no see.
- Ms. @asmaa_temerik, we did it, sister! Unfortunately, we missed Ms. @iman_brema
- Thank you, Dr @cimodcimod and family, for spending time together.
- Ms. @aliyahratnan, Alhamdulillah, we were able to meet this Ramadhan!
- Dr. Sri: It was great to meet after 6 years finally. We are from South Tapanuli and Jakarta, and we met in Mecca.
- Dr. @dwi_1010: Although it was a very short catch-up, I hope to see you soon, insya Allah.
- Even though she isn’t in the frame, I always visited Dr. Dewi when I performed Umrah, especially during Eid. Spending Eid at her house felt like being in Indonesia, as she served delicious Indonesian dishes like Rendang and other seasonal cookies. Alhamdulillah.
- I also met other people of different nationalities #globalmuslimcitizen. I was thankful for their kindness with sharing their stories, the food, and laughter.
Insha Allah, I hope to spend the next Ramadhan in Mecca and Medina with family and friends. Ameen ya rabbil alamin.
So many blessings during my Umra journey
Alhamdulilah, my Umra journey run smootly. I experienced so many blessings. Allah made it easy for me. During Ramadhan, there was plenty of food. People tend to give charity. We shared our food with others who needed it.
So many times, what’s inside my head becomes really. The one I remember the most was my Sunnah tawaf when I wanted to touch the Ka’bah and pray at the Multazam (one of the mustajab places for prayer) during one of my Sunnah tawaf. I want to do it despite the crowd. It was the 22nd of Ramadhan. I had my tawaf just before the maghrib prayer. It was one hour before the Azan. I slowly started my tawaf. On my fifth round, I moved closer to Ka’bah, and finally, I could touch and pray at the Multazam. I should have asked to touch/kiss the Hajar Aswad. I was that close to do so until I got sent off by the Askar/security because the maghrib prayer started immediately. Alhamdulilah.
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